LIBRARY OF CONGRESS. 



UNITED STATES OF AMERICA. 



(HAS. FRANCIS 

PRINTER AND ENGRAVER 

154-156 W. 27111 ST. 

NEW VORK 



^¥A 



FHE 



SELF INSTRUCTOR... 



BY 



/ 

C. E. MOORE 



CONTAINING DIAGRAMS AND INSTRUCTIONS 



FOR DRAFTING ALL STYLES OF 

I jEP 26 \Q9« 

GENTLEMEN'S GARMENTS 



PUBLISHED BV 

MOORE & ROSCOE 

NEW YORK 



-4^ 



^ 



■ i" 



THE 

Incline Method 

OF 

GARMENT CUTTING 

REVISED AND IMPROVED TO 
1894 

Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year .S^ by Mo.,k.. & Roscok. in the office of the I.ihrarian of 

Congress, at Washington, U. L. 



INDEX. 



^ 



Preface, -----...... -j 

Facts Worthy oi' Notk, -----.... g 

How TO Measure, . - - --..... u 

The Value of the Incline ani> Sutpression Measure, - - '3 

The Frame Work, --.-..... . j^ 

Three Button Cutaway, - - - - - i6 

Double Breasted Frock, - - - - - - - . . i8 

Double Breastfd Frock for Corpulent Figures, . . . . . - 20 

Single Breasted Sacks, ..... . . . . 22 

Double Breasted Sacks, ..--.-..... 24 

Fly Front Overcoat, ......... - 26 

Double Breasted Overcoat, - - - - - - - 28 

Sack for Corpulent Figire, ---...... 30 

Single Breasted Vest, - - - - - - . - -32 

Double Breasted Vest, - - ...... 34 

Vest for Corpulent' Figure, -----..... 36 

Full Dress Ve.st, ........... 38 

Full Dress Coat, ........... 40 

Trousers for Normal and Corpulent Figures, - . . . . - 42 

The Sleeve, - - --....... 44 

The Inverness, --.-........ 46 

Shoulder Cape, --.-....... 48 

Military Cape, -.---...... 50 

Proportion Table, -----......53 



PREFACE. 



In prcsentiuq t/iis tuork to the trade the authors feel confident of haz'ing 
simplified THE ART OF GARMENT CUTTING to an extent tievcr before attained. 

For THE INCLINE METHOD xvc clahn simplicity and accuracy as 
well as ADAPTABILITY TO ALL FORMS, through zchich perfectly bah\nced 
p Uterus and perfection of fit are secured zcith more certainty than />y any other method 
known. 

The taking of CORRECT MEASURES has always been one of the 
greatest difficulties experienced by cutters, even zvhen the utmost care was exercised. By 
THE INCLINE METHOD this difficulty is avoided for the reason that a NOVICE 
can measure the human form with undeviating accuracy and produce satisfactory risults. 
7' he mistake in a measure of one inch merely affects the results ONE FOURTH of an 
inch — an infimtismal consideration when applied to garment cutting. 

To secure the BEST RESULTS it is absolutely necessary that the 
cutter should FOLLOW THE METHOD AS LAID DOWN FOR ALL FORMS. 
By practical experience tiie authors have improved the method up to date, and it is especially 
recommended that it shall be used as WE have given it without addition or subtraction 
of any of its parts. 

The authors, having had practical experience as Custom Cutters in all 
sections of the country, are positive that THE INCLINE METHOD will be found 
sufficient to meet all requirements satisfactory and with the best results. 



FACTS WORTHY OF NOTE. 



We would respectfully ask the cutter to carefully read these facts before he 
attempts to measure or draft. 

FIRST. Always stand back of the customer when taking a measure for a 
coat, as he will stand in a natural position; enabling you to get a more correct 
measure than otherwise. 

SECOND. Take each individual measure two or three times before removing 
the tape, as the secret of good cutting lies in a correct measure. 

THIRD. Take all the measures for a coat over the vest. E.xcept for over 
coats which should be taken over the under coat. 

FOURTH. Take all the measures snug, but not tight as in taking them snug 
your measures are more uniform. 

The Measure should be taken in this order : 

1. Shoulder pitch as shown from A. to B figure i. 

2. Drop f of an inch and measure to natural waist, (as shown by C.) 

3. Full length of coat. 

4. The scye measure as indicated by E. and E. figure i. 

5. Breast measure. 

6. Waist. 

7. Seat. 

8. Incline measure as indicated by F. and G. figure 2. 

9. Suppression measure as indicated by H. and I. figure 2. 
10. Length of sleeve. 

THE MEASIRKS FOR THE VEST 

arc the opening and length only, as we use the coat measure to draft the vest. 



HOW TO FIND THE MEASURES. 

The shoulder pitch is found by placing one angle of the square on top of the 
lowest point of one shoulder, as indicated by E. and F. (Diagram i) holding it on \\ 
level with the other mark in center of back of B, then measure the distance from A. to 
H. which is shoulder pitch. Point A. is an imaginary point on the collar where tlie 
full height should be when coat is linished. 

THE SCYE MEASURE 

should be taken around the arm at the shoulder directly over the point as indicated 
by E. and O. figure i. 

THE BREAST MEASURE 

is taken around the body close up under the arm. 

THE WAIST MEASURE 

is taken around the body above the hollow of back, and for large men is usually 
from one to one and half inches smaller than waist for trousers. 

THE HIP MEASURE 

is taken over the largest part of the seat or hiji, for a coat this measure is usually 
smaller than the seat measure for trousers about one half inch. 

THE INCLINE MEASURE 

is found by placing a straight edge against the back, between the blades and resting 
on the seat, held in position as represented on figure 2, G and F. Then with the 
square measure close in to the neck, as high up on the collar as you wish the coat 
collar to be when coat is finished. 



THE SUPPRESSION MEASURE 

is found by measuring close into tlie back at hollow of waist while holding the 
straight edge in position as described for the incline measure indicated by letters I. 
and H. figure 2. 

The following table will show what part of the incline measure is used in drafting: 

When the Incline is i inch apply i inch to draft. 
When the Incline is 2 inches apply i^ inches to draft. 
When the Incline is 3 inches apply lA inches to draft. 
When the Incline is 4 inches apply if inches to draft. 
When the Incline is 5 inches apply 2 inches to draft. 
When the Incline is 6 inches apply 2\ inches to draft. 
When the Incline is 7 inches apply 2.^ inches to draft. 
Thus it will be seen when we say such a part is incline, uc mean the part 
applied as shown in the table, and not the actual measure. 

INCLINE MEASURE. 

The value of the Incline Measure as a drafting feature is far superior to any 
other way of obtaining the points of a garment. 

It not only increases and decreases in value according to the incline of the 
figure but brings about the perfect balance to a garment that cannot be obtained in 
any other way. 

THE SIPPRESSION MEASURE. 

This important measure is used for the skirt only. It provides the necessary 
amount of spring for all shapes and is positively correct. There is no better way of 
obtaining the required amount of spring than by this method. 



PLATE I. 

THE FRA3IE WORK 

Commence by drawiiitr lines Z— X and Z— K. 
From Z to A is f of an inch. 

A to B is shoulder pitch. 
B to C is one-third of seye measure. 
A to D is length to natural waist. 
D to E is fashionable waist. 
A to X is full length of coat. 
Square lines A, B, C, D, E and X as illustrated. 
From C to F is i{ inches always. 
F to G is incline. 
G to H is two-thirds of breast. 
I is one-half the distance between C and H. 
J is one-eighth of breast from H. 
Square lines H — K andl — L. 
O is t of an inch from line 1 on line B. 
Line L is 2 inches above li.-.e B always. 
From K to M is incline less one inch. 
M to N is one-sixth of breast. 
='• to R is one-half of breast. 
Square R to S. 
From D to P is i inch. 
P to Q is I breast. 
O to W is incline. 
O to V is ^ breast. 



14 



-JJ Eu- 



i Si 



PLATE 2. 

THREE BUTTON CUTAWAY. 

Commence by squaring lines Z — X and Z — K. 
From 2 to A is five-eighths of an inch always. 
A to B is shoulder pitch 4|. 

B to C is one-third of scye measure 15 on thirds. 
A to U is length to natural waist \t\ 
U to E is fashionable waist 18.^ 
A to X is full lentgh of coat. 
Square lines A, B, C, D, E and X, as illustrated. 
From C to F li inches always. 

F to G is incline \\ inches. 
G to H is two-thirds of breast, 18 on f. 
Point I is one-half the distance from C to H, which gives the width of back. 
This is correct for all sizes, except for very large figures; in such cases it can be 
reduced one-half an inch. 

Point J is one-eighth of breast from H. 

From '■' to T is one-half of breast 18 inches, square down for U. 
T to VV is 3.^ inches. 

U to V is 4 inches, or \ inch more than is added to the breast always, 
line Z — X to S is A inch always. 
Draw a line frcjm A to S, then square it to fashionable waist, by so doing 
you give spring to back skirt. 

From A to R is one-eighth breast and \ inch always, 2\ inches shape up to 10. 

O is f of an incli from line I on line B. 
Point L is 2 inches always, above line O. 
From O to Q is one-eighth breast more or less. 
From K to 3 is incl.ne less one inch. 
From 3 to 20 is one-si.\th breast. 

Draw a line from 10 to O and from 3 to 6, making them the same length. 
From S to Y is one-eighth breast more or less. 
From.Y to 9 is incline, t .^ inches. 

From O to 5 is one-half of that taken out between Y and 9, or \ inch square 
down from 9, 1 6 inches always, which establishes point 4. 

From 4 to 2 is 1 ^ inches always then add the full suppression i^ inches also 
I inch for each inch, the seat is larger than breast. When the seat is smaller 
reduce \ inch for each inch, this gives the requireil amount uf spring in all cases. 
From 3 to 8 is one-quarter of breast. 
From 8 to front is 2I inches, more or less. 

Measure from S to Y, place that amount on 9, eoiitiiuie to 15, whatever it 
measures (say 6 inches) place on point U and measure back tlie waist, taking out the 
difference under the arm. 

Drop 2 inches (more or less) below fashionable waist for length of front and 
draw line 14 to 18, drop the side body below line E, \ inch and raise \ inch at 
side seam as illustrated, take out between forepart and skirt I inch; sink scye i inch 
below breast line, reduce shoulder at point \ inch and raise above the line ^ inch. 

REMARKS. 

The reason we add from (J to 5, one half of that taken out between Y and <^, is to j;ity the proper 
amount of blade room ; do not take out more than i \ inches in any ease or less than ^ inch under the arm, 
the width of side body is a matter of style — //; this draft it is \ breast. 



16 




IIKUKKN LINES KKIKESEN r CHANliES FOR CORPULENT KIGCRE, 



ri.ATR 3. 

DOUBLE Jill EAST ED FROCK. 

This is produced the same as diagram 2 with this addition. 
From T to VV is 2\. 
U to V is 2|. 
To draft hipel. Commence by extending lines 20— C D and E line 27 and 
28 is squared tip from the waist. 

From 29 to 23 is 3 inches or style. 

27 to 22 is \ inch less, draw a line from 22 tluougii 23 to 25. 
24 to 25 is 3.^ inches or more, draw a line from 28 to 25. 

i 

28 to 26 is 2\ (style or) shape as represented. 
The skirt is squared down from waist. 

From 4 to 2 is 1^ or ^ more than for cutaways. 

The two lines at bottom arc one inch apart, this gives the proper length and 
run to front. 



18 



PLATE 4. 

DOUBLE BliEASTED FROCK FOB COBPULEyT FIGUBE. 

This draft is produced the same as Plate 2 witii I lie following changes: 
I^oint 3 is advanced \ inch and raised \ inch, and the scye is shaped \ inch inside 
of line J. Point 20 is 2 A inches above VV. Draw a line from 20 to the waist for run of 
front. There is only .1 inch taken out under the arm. Shape as represented. 
The broken lines represent the changes. 



?9 



PLATE 5. 

SINGLE nn BASTED SACKS. 

Commence by squaring lines Z — X and Z — K. 
From Z to A is ^ inch, always. 
A to B is shoulder pitch. 
B to C is ^ of scye. 15 or thirds. 
A to D is natural waist. 
A to X is full length of coat. 
Square lines A, B, C, D and X. 
From C to F is i^ inches. 
F to G is incline. 

G to H is two-thirds Ireast 18 or two-thirds. 
H to J is one-eighth breast. 
I is half the distance from C to H. This gives the width of back. 
Square up lines H, J, I. 
From '•• to T to half breast 18 or halves. 
Square down for U. 
Fioni T to Wis 3.1 inches. 

U to V is 4 inches, or .^ inch more than what we add to breast. 
A to R is one-eighth breast and { inch. 
L is 2 inches above O on line B. 
Q is one-fourlh of scye from line B. 
Y is one-third breast from C. Square down for E. 
From K to 3 is incline, less one inch. 
3 to 20 is one-sixth of breast. 
3 to 8 is one-fourth breast. 
M to N is incline. Square down 16 ineiics. 
From 4 to 2 is 1 1 inches. Add the suppression and \ inch for each inch the 
seat is larger than breast, and deduct |- inch for each inch the seat is smaller than 
breast. This gives the required amount of spring in all cases. 

Draw shoulder from 10 to O and from 3 to 6, making them same length sink 
scye, i inch. Drop point 6 I inch and raise the shoulder above the line ^ inch. Finish 
as illustrated, taking out between back and forepart \ inch. 

For a loose coat take out between back and forepart at I | of an inch and 
i inch between M and N at waist. Make side seam straight, and do not make any 
under arm cut. 

TO DRAFT THE COLLAR 

draw a line from break by one inch back of shoulder in all cases; also from point 
A to break. Shape crease line as illustrated. 

This explanation follows for all style Rolls. 

The two lines at bottom are one inch apart, tliis gives the proper length and 
run to front. 



22 



PLATE 6. 

DOUBLE BREASTED SACK. 

(Ske Plate 5.) 

This is drafted the same as for a single breasted, with the exception of front, 
for which see fashion plate. The two lines at bottom arc one inch apart. This 
gives the proper length and run to front. 



»4 



PLATE 7. 

FLY FRONT OFF R COAT. 

(See Plate 5.) 

This is drafted the same as the sack coat, with the exception of front, which 
is 4[ (more or less) and h inch more sprin£f. For a loose coat follow instructions 
as for a suck. The full box back is represented by broken lines; go out from 
back line at 16 inches below waist, one inch, and draw line from top as represented. 

Do not make any under arm cut and make side scam slraicfiit. The two 
lines at bottom are one inch apart. This gives the proper length and run to front. 



»(> 



PLATE 8. 

DOUBLE BREASTED OVERCOAT. 

(Sek Plate 5.) 

This is drafted the same as plate 5, with the exception of front, for which 
see fashion plate. The overcoat requires h inch more spring than the sack coat. The 
two lines at bottom are one inch apart, this gives the proper length and run to front. 



28 



I'LATK 9. 

COR P I LENT FIG URE. 

This is drafted the same as plate 5. Make ciianges as illustrated. 



3° 



PLATE lo. 

SINGLE BREASTED VEST. 

Commence by squaring lines Z — X and Z — K. 
I'roni Z to A is ^ of an inch. 

A to B is shoulder pitch 4|. 
B to C is one-third of scyc 15 or thirds. 

A to D is length to waist \6h, square lines A, B, C and D. 
C to F is \^ inches. 
F to G is incline i i inches. 
G to H is two-thirds of breast 18 on f. 
H to J is one-eighth of breast. 
Point I is half the distance from C to H. 
From * to T is half breast, iS inches. 

T to W is 2J inches. 
y is lialf of draft. 

Square down from W, T and Y and up from H, J and I. 
From A to R is one-eighth breast and \ inch. 10 is ^ from R. 
Point N is 2 inches above line B on line I. 
O is f of an inch out, on line B, the same as for a coat. 

From K to 3 is incline less one inch and l inch more, also I inch forward 
from line H K. 

From P to L is liaif breast on halves. 

S is I more or less from D. Measure the waist from U to L and from S to M, 
taking out tiie difTcrcnce under the arm. Get length to E and draw back to line 
Y. V is one-eighth breast from line E. Square back to X. Draw a line from 
10 to O and from 3 to O making them the same length. Add A inch for stand 
shape scye | inch inside of line J. Shorten shoulder J of an inch, add one inch to 
length and f of an inch to opening finish as illustrated. 



32 



PLATE II. 

DOUBLE BREASTED VEST. 

(See Plate io.) 

This is drafted the same as for a single breasted with the exception of front 
for which see fashion plate. 



34 



PLATE 12. 

VEST FOR COB PV LENT FIGUllE, 

(See Plate io.) 

This is drafted the same as for a normal figure with the following changes: 
Square up from breast line 2^ inches. Add to front on waist line half the 

incline I inch. Take out by pocket one-half of that added to front. Finish as 

illustrated. 



36 



PLATE 13. 

FULL DRESS VEST. 

This is drafted the same as plate 10, therefore it needs no further explanation. 



38 



PLATE 14. 

FULL DRESS COAT. 

This is drafted the same as plate 2. Plate 3 jrives explanation for drafting! lapel. 
To draft the skirt, measure the side body and forepart from A to C is one-third, fiom C 
to B is one-twelfth, from D to E is one-third, from E to F is one-twelfth, from A to 
M is i^ inches, shape as illustrated. 



40 



PLATE 15. 

TROUSEllS. 

TO DRAFT THE FORE PART 
commence by drawing line A — C, outside length, 42 inches. 
From A to B is height of waist, 10 inches. 

B to C is length of inseam 
D is one-half the distance from B to C 
From D to E is 2 inches always. 
Square lines A, B, E and C. 
P'rom A to G is li inches always. 

G to H is one-half of waist. 

B to I is one-half of seat. 

I to J is one-eighth of seat. 

J to L is f inch for dress. 

I to M is the same. 

C to R is one-tweltfh of seat. 

C to K is one-half of seat. 

C to O is one-quarter of seat. 

B to F is one-sixth of scat. 

Draw a line from F to R and From L to K. 

Shape as illustrated. 

TO DRAFT BACK PART 

commence by extending lines A. B, E and C; also from F through J. 

Frt)m J to O is one-eighth seat. 

F to N is li inches always. 

M to Q is ^ inch more than knee measure on halves. 

E to I the same. 

K to U is i inch more than width of bottom on halves. 

R to T is the same. 
Square back from H. 
Draw n line from E through N for C. 
From H to P is one-eighth of sack. 
Draw a line from L to P. Scjuare up from P for S. 
From P to S is one-sixth of seat. 

C to B is 2 inches. 

Measure the waist from C to B. Place that amount on H, and continue to G; 

then from II to A, allowing \\ inches for seams, taking out the surplus between 

A and B. 

ABNORMAL THOLSEUS. 

These are drafted the same as for a normal, with the following changes: 
From G to N is one-half waist. 

S(|uare up from I for H. Measure the distance from H to N, and raise the 
front one-half this amount (as per doited lines). 

Point S on hack is one-sixth from dotted line. 



42 



J\l 




PLATE 16. 

THE SLEEVE. 

Measure around the arm scye of pattern take one inch less, and commence by 
squaring lines A B and A C. 

From A to J is one-sixteenth scye. 

A to E is one-fourth scye. 

A to C is one-half scye, square down for D. 

C to ^' is onc-twclfth scye. 

E to K is one-sixteenth scye, square down for F. 

K to F is one-fourth scye, square out from F for Z. 

Z to G is i\ inches, scjuare down for T. 

G to H is i\ inches, square hack for I. 

X to 1 is 1 1 inches, square down for M. 

H to L is length of sleeve. 

L to T is 1 1 inches, square hack for B. 

N to P is width of sleeve at bottom. 
W is half the distance from A to B, square to Q. 
From O to R is i inch. 

S to U and V to VV is the same shape as illustrated. 

TO B.^LANCE THE SLEEVK 

place line C — D on a line drawn down from front of scye, with the depth of sleeve 
(at I) on depth of scye and where line Z touches this line, make front notch. Also 
notch on back at A. 

By so doing your sleeves will hang properly in all cases and for all forms. 



44 



PLATE 17. 

THE INVERNESS. 

The body part of this garment is obtained the same as for an overcoat, with the 
following changes: 

From N to C is about 2 inches. 

From I to D is I inch square down full length. 
Point K is 16 inches from natural waist. 
Square l)ack for 15. 

From line A — X to IJ is 1 inch; draw a line from A through B to full length. 
G to E is the same as from O to C. 
Front of scye to F is .1 inch. 
W is half way between depth of scye and waist. 
From K to H is suppression measure. 
Draw a line from W through M. M is scye depth. 

The length of cape is obtained by the sleeve length. Sweep from G shape as 
illustrated. 



46 



PLATE 1 8. 



SHOULDER CAPE. 



Place a pattern in position as wlien drafted. From back line at waist go out 
.1 inch for B. Draw a line from A to B. get length to H. 
From A to C is ^ inch more than width of back. 
Make D about i inch shorter than shoulder of coat. 
G is about i inch from front of scye. 
Sweep by one-half between C and D. 
From F to E is the same as from C to D. 

E to L is as wide as the shoulder is shortened at D. 
L to M is the same as from D to K. 
Sweep from one-half (he distance from F to P. 
Shape as illustrated. 



48 



PLATE 19. 

MILITARY CAFE. 

Place a coat pattern in position as illustrated. 

From A to D is length desired. 

Draw a line from A to B. 

Point C is midway from A to B. 

Sweep from D by C. 

Open shoulder as represented. 



5° 




/ 



ipiRoiPOi^Tionsr t^^ble. 



lireast of Coat h2 



Waist 28 

Hip 38 

HhonUler Pitch 4^^ 

Waist Length j 15 

Size of Srye 13^ 

Incline 2i 

Suppression If 

Length of Under Arm . . 
Length of Vest 



33 
29 
34 

mi 

14 
2i 
U 



lOJ ! 17 
23 I 23i 



34 


35 


36 


37 


38 


30 


31 


32 


33 


34 


35 


36 


37 


37 


38 


H 


4i 


4i 


4i 


H 


mj 


16 


16 


16i 


17 


14i 


14i 


15 


15i 


15i 


■^ 


3 


3 


3 


3i 


n 


li 


H 


H 


U 


m 


17f 


18 


1H 


18| 


24 


24 i 


25 


25 


25i 



39 
35 
38 
4i 

Hi 

16 
3i 
U 



18a 



26 



4U 


41 


36 


37 


39 


40 


4i 


4i 


17i 


17i 


16i 


16i 


4 


4 


u 


1 


19 


m 


26i 


27 



42 
38 
41 

4i 
18 
17 

4i 

] 
19i 
27^ 



53 



